Mountain Climbing Academy – 2-Week Climbing Course in Lofoten

The goal of the Mountain Climbing Academy is to help you develop into a safe and independent mountain climber. Over 10 course days, we combine systematic training at local climbing areas with long days on classic routes in the mountains of Lofoten.

We work with placing and assessing traditional protection, building anchors, efficient rope systems, multi-pitch climbing and moving safely and efficiently through bigger mountain terrain. We also practise travelling along alpine ridges and introduce the fundamentals of self-rescue and partner rescue.

A key part of the academy is gaining real experience. Participants therefore get several opportunities to lead themselves, both at the training crags and on mountain routes, with close supervision and guidance from experienced instructors.

Instructor-led and participant-led climbs

We divide our mountain days into what we call instructor-led climbs and participant-led climbs.

On instructor-led climbs, you follow an instructor and see how an experienced mountain climber plans, organises and carries out a bigger climbing objective. These days also allow us to choose routes with a higher technical difficulty.

On participant-led climbs, you take the lead and gradually assume more responsibility for the day. We choose easier routes so that the focus can be on protection, anchors, rope systems, communication, efficiency and good decision-making. Your instructor stays close and provides guidance throughout the climb.

Parts of the course take place at the climbing areas around Kalle, but our aim is to spend as much time as possible on real mountain routes. This is where the individual skills come together and are applied in real situations.

Close supervision

This course is designed for climbers who already have experience and want to take their mountain climbing to the next level. To get the most out of the academy, you must be comfortable leading grade 5+ indoors.

There is a maximum of four participants per instructor and eight participants in total. This allows for close supervision, individual feedback and plenty of opportunities to develop throughout the course.

The instructors are qualified NF High Mountain Instructors, NORTIND Mountain Guides, or guides currently training towards NORTIND certification.

Possible climbs

Weather, conditions and the level of the group determine which routes we choose. Possible objectives include:

• Nordryggen on Vågakallen (4+)

• Bare Blåbær (5-)

• Gandalf (5)

• Ant Line (5+)

• Råna (6-)

• Vestpillaren on Presten (6)

After ten intensive course days, we finish the Mountain Climbing Academy with a celebratory dinner – hopefully with new climbing partners, plenty of new experience and a solid foundation for many future adventures in the mountains.